Trekking in Cinque Terra  

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Cinque Terra is an area on the Northwest coast of Italy and is also considered part of the Italian Rivera. It is comprised of 5 small villages that are nestled on the cliffs overlooking the Ligurian Sea. Besides accessing these hillside towns by car or train they can be seen by hiking a trail along the mountain cliffs overlooking the sea. It’s a 9 km trek to the fifth town and this is how we would see these 5 villages. We arrived by car in Riomaggiore (the first village) where we would spend the night and after checking into a B & B it was time for dinner. Tonight it would be spaghetti. After dinner, and with all of our experience of exploring walkways and alleyways in Venice, we decided try to get lost in Riomaggiore. No such luck! This village has only one main walkway that leads to the water with homes, stores and other buildings up both sides of the narrow valley. But we had a great time going up and down the stairs (and a lot of them), finally to the top which looked like a very old small fort. We were staying in an extremely charming village that seemed to take us back 200 years.

The next morning we packed a change of clothes in our day packs to spend the night in Monterosso, the last village of the trek. The trek to the next hillside town (Manarola) was more like a sidewalk about 500 ft. above the water and very scenic. After walking through this quaint town it was off to the next one. Corniglia is a village perched high on the hill overlooking the sea. The 14th-century church sits in the square among narrow walkways and buildings that are sure to date back as far. The trail is now turning more difficult with the first of several hills to climb. The hike to Vernazza took longer (1 hr) as we climbed higher among the terraced grape vine fields that were everywhere. It was so picturesque in every direction we looked. This fourth town is considered one of the most charming of the five with the narrow streets and small squares. It’s built among a medieval fort and castle in the old section of town. By the time we reached Vernazza we were ready for lunch and quickly found a very quaint restaurant on the main square facing the water.

Now rested we were ready for the longest (1 ¾ hr.) and most difficult portion of the hike, to Monterosso. Leaving Vernazza we were immediately climbing on irregular and steep steps along the cliffs until we were about 1,500 ft. above the water. Stopping to look at the sites (and rest), we were on many occasions able to look back at the last two towns. The water, cliffs and views of the towns were so impressive with their beauty. We finally had our first view of Monterosso (last village) and its lovely swimming beach. We were now starting our decent on steep stairs with vineyards all around and with local villagers tending to them.

Arriving in Monterosso thirsty but exhilarated, we quickly found a Pension and a cold beer. This is the largest town of the five but with the same charm. Our small Pension had been recently remodeled and had a terrace on top overlooking the main walkway of town. Watching the sunset, the terrace was put to good use with a bottle of the local wine. Later we ran into the owner and her boyfriend and enjoyed a glass of wine with them at a nearby tavern. We enjoyed hearing about the town and the unhurried lifestyle from a local and hear the history of her Pension. This property has been in her family for over 200 years and besides being the family home at one time, it had been the school as well. She is now managing the Pension for the family.

After enjoying the ambiance of the town and a good night sleep we took the train back to Riomaggiore the next morning. With a nice warm day we lingered in our favorite town in Cinque Terre before heading off to Tuscany and Umbria for some wine tasting.

Where’s Pat and Mike??